Zagreb in December is like a postcard that got drunk on mulled wine. The advent lights twinkle with a kind of winking optimism, as if they know something you don’t. Maybe it’s that the whole city has cornered the market on festive cheer. Or maybe it’s just that Zagreb knows how to do heartbreak, and the evidence is tucked up in the Upper Town, in a museum that feels less like a tourist trap and more like a collective exhale of humanity.
The Museum of Broken Relationships. Even the name makes your chest tighten a bit, doesn’t it? It’s not just a museum. It’s a quirky little time machine, a hall of fame for emotional debris, and a clusterfuck of feelings that might leave you gasping in laughter one minute and wiping away a sneaky tear the next.
Here’s the premise: people from around the world donate objects that represent the ghosts of their past relationships. Each item comes with a story—sometimes a single sentence, sometimes an emotional essay. A toaster that saw too many breakfasts for two. A wedding dress that never made it to the altar. A little stuffed bunny that once carried the weight of every hope and promise you could pile onto it. It’s the stuff of ordinary lives, yet it lands like a gut punch.
Walking through this space, you get to bear witness to the kind of heartbreak that doesn’t just break—it shapes. And somewhere between the shelf of tokens and the walls of stories, you realize that this museum is as much about healing as it is about hurt.
It’s not curated for closure in the tidy, Instagram-quote kind of way. No one’s trying to stitch up the wounds here. Instead, it’s an invitation to sit with them for a while, to feel the sting, and let it echo. Because the hurt and the healing aren’t linear or disparate. They’re more like dance partners—awkward and clumsy, but somehow perfectly in sync.
I stood in front of an axe once, donated by someone who used it to chop up their cheating ex’s furniture. “After every strike,” the donor wrote, “I felt better.”
And I thought, isn’t that just heartbreak in a nutshell?
A little destruction, a little catharsis.
The axe wasn’t just a symbol of loss; it was a monument to the kind of messy, imperfect humanity that feels oddly like home.
I’ve been in that room before, metaphorically speaking—the one where love implodes and leaves you staring at the wreckage. The museum’s genius is how it pulls you into that shared space, that collective hum of, “Oh, you too?” It’s oddly comforting, in the way a song can wreck you—and save you—all at once.
This museum is for the romantics and the cynics alike. It’s for anyone who’s ever loved and lost—and if you haven’t, are you even alive?
You walk out of there feeling gutted and full at the same time, like you just finished the last page of a book that knew you better than you knew yourself.
So, if you make it to Zagreb ever in this lifetime (and I highly recommend that you do), soak in the city lights and cobbled alleyways of Upper Town. But save a moment for this little corner of heartbreak. Let yourself hurt. Let yourself heal.
Welcome the clusterfuck.